We were surprised by our first impressions of Thailand – it really isn’t an outstandingly different country, there are very few high rise buildings, and they are all very spreadout. In many ways Bangkok is quite similar to Cairo, but without the sleazy men :o) It felt like a mix between Egypt and Fiji.
However one of the first things we did notice, and were quite surprised by, was that everyone has new cars over there – these people earn very low wages, but can still afford new cars – according one of our tour guides, a nice car is a big status symbol for Thais.
On arrival at the airport, we quickly found the bus we needed and transferred to Koh San road – this is the main tourist area of Bangkok, and well worth a look!
It is very busy, has lots of T shirt and souvenir stalls, basically a big street market, with heaps of people dying to bargain with you! I was impressed at the range of goods, as in Egypt they had a lot of souvenir sellers, but nothing I really wanted to buy. I think one of the best bits about Thailand is they always have the things you want to buy, for example when you are in a hot country, you want cool drinks and juicy tropical fruit. These are all available in Thailand – we honestly ate so many fresh pineapples and watermelons we lost count, because for 50 cents NZD you can buy half a pineapple, precut and cored! Delicious!
We also enjoyed the cheap vendor food – Noodle soup, fried rice and pad thai could all be purchased for $1.50 NZD, and this was enough for your lunch or dinner – it tasted fantastic, and the best bit was we didn’t get sick from eating the local food like we did in Egypt.
We found the people selling stuff at the market good in terms of engaging you if you appear interested but not harassing you (again like we had in Egypt – no one would leave you alone, and it really put you off bargaining with them). They did however get offended when you tried to barging too low with them, but I got over that and just tried low anyway :o) There are quite a few places in Thailand that you can get suits and shirts sewn for you for really cheap prices. The people however seem to never have enough business and it is these people that tended to try the hardest to get you to purchase something from them.
We meet up with Bev’s cousin Dee and her fiancée Mark at Koh San Road, and got a room at the hotel they were at – at a mere $25 NZD a night it was excellent – a decent bed, air conditioning and a bathroom (with western toilet) is all one needs in Bangkok. We didn’t have hot water, but in that heat, it is an unnecessary luxury, and the fact that the shower is above the toilet seems to be common practice – weird (just had to remember to take the toilet paper out of the bathroom before showering, otherwise soggy paper!).
We explored Bangkok a little, the first night we happened upon a cool market full of the locals (no long noses were around, as Mark and I decided to call our fellow europeans), they say that Thais no longer eat at home anymore because buying food off the street vendors is just as cost effective as making it at home, and this was definitely noticeable at the market – everyone was buying all sorts of cooked delights, including deep fried locusts, cockroaches, frogs on a stick etc.
We weren’t so game as to try these local delights, but we did try a couple of less risky items, such as a sweet meringue wafer type sweet, and the best thing we tried was this lime leaf wrapped morsel, that included a wedge of lime, some peanuts and tamarind sauce – very delicious mix of sweet and sour. We later read in the Lonely planet that they recommend trying these because they are so nice! There was a real carnival atmosphere at this market, and you could pay to play a few games, such as shooting balloons with a bow and arrow, throwing a ball at a level which made a thai girl fall into a barrel of water etc.
We also saw a few temples, however we weren’t terribly interested in these, and there were a lot of locals around because the Thai King's sister had just died, so they were all paying their respects. In some ways this was kinda cool though, because the locals were all making these cool floating flower displays out of flax (or something similar, maybe palm leaves) and arranging flowers on them, they were then placing them in the river, it was very interesting to see this custom – so very different to our own.
The second night that we were in Bangkok, we arranged for an overnight bus to Phuket. In hindsight, we should have read the lonely planet before booking transport, because this will have told us that booking overnight buses from Koh San road is not a good idea, as these buses are actually illegal, and they often don’t take you where you want to go! We had looked into getting a train down to Phuket, but the problem is the train only went 2/3rds of the way to Phuket and then you had to get a bus from the train station in Surat thani to Phuket – however, we found ourselves stranded in Surat thani nonetheless, despite many assurances from our travel agent in Koh San road that the bus was direct to Phuket!
Anyway eventually we made it to Phuket town, we then caught the local bus (a truck with a crate on the back) out to the beaches. We settled on Karon, which is south of Pattong beach. By this stage we were shattered – we had been up since 6am after sleeping on a bus overnight, we had only had a few snacks such as chips and peanuts that we could buy from a service station to eat, and it was about 2pm, and stinking hot! We found somewhere to sit down and have a meal so that we could try and think straight. After lunch we dragged our luggage along the beach front until we found a place to stay. Mark thankfully negotiated a good price for two rooms for us.
We were surprised at the beaches in Phuket – we had thought they would be crystal clear like the beaches in Fiji, but they were no different to say the Mt in NZ – the water wasn’t a really cool blue, and it wasn’t crystal clear, however it was really warm – just like a bath – it was so nice to go swimming after more than a year!
We had expected to see heaps of lady boys, and young thai girls with crusty old European guys, and we did see a few, but not as many as we had thought. That whole industry is really disgusting, and it is so sad that it is Western men driving the trade - enough said. We were trying to work out how it is one picks up a thai girl, because it wasn’t immediately obvious, but we decided it probably started by asking for a massage or a massar (said really nasally by the thais).
One thing that was particularly funny however, was that the Thais thought Bevan and Dee were thais also – I guess both have quite tanned skin for Chinese, so I assume people thought Mark had picked up a thai girl for “companionship” whilst in Thailand, but what they must have thought of me I am not sure – a crusty European girl picking up a thai boy?? Must’ve thought I was a bit strange! Haha
We did a day trip out to Phi Phi Island which is off Phuket (an island itself), and has the crystal clear waters that I had assumed Phuket would have. It had absolutely gorgeous beaches, and some of the movie “The Beach” was filmed there.
Phi Phi Island - absolutely gorgeous beach
We feed some monkeys some bananas, and Pepsi (prob not the best idea) and did some really cool snorkelling both off the boat and off the beach– a great day out and well worth it. The day ended with an elephant ride – which I must say was a real highlight for me, they are so incredibly smart. You could buy a plastic bag of small bananas for your elephant if you want, so I did, and of course the elephants know what is in the bag, completely conditioned to the sound of the bag rattling I am sure! So our elephant wouldn’t walk more than a few steps without reaching its trunk backwards for another banana haha! I’m sure it probably knew exactly how many were in each bag too!
Overall we had a great time relaxing in Phuket, it was really nice to lazy at the beach on the deck chairs and under the umbrellas that are all laid out for you to sit on (at a hansome sum of $5 each per day!) I even managed to get a tan! Although not terribly noticeable when positioned next to Bev as he just went super tanned!
The next day we returned by overnight bus again (this time we followed the Lonely planets advice and went to the national bus terminal) to Bangkok. We could tell that the bus was not a scam because it was just full of locals, and the hostess couldn’t speak english! Mark and Dee then left for Chiang Mai, and we had a few more days in Bangkok. We did two day trips, one to Ayattaya – an ancient city, which was once the capital of Thailand, with lots of cool ruins etc. This was great, because as luck had it, we were the only ones on the tour, so we got a guide all to ourselves.
Ayattaya - Ruins
Aww nice Kitty